
Graceland is the nexus of the Elvis Presley multiverse.
Elvis feels more alive than ever in 2026, closing in on 50 years since his death. He was a bit of a joke, a punch line for much of my teenage years, but it kind of feels like we’ve all moved past that a bit to appreciate the massive cultural space he filled in America’s 20th century. Sure, there’s Vegas Elvis in all his jumpsuited splendour but there’s also raw Sun Elvis, hungry and strange, and swaggering ’68 Elvis, showing the kids how it’s done.
I hadn’t been to Graceland since the mid-1990s sometime, where it felt kind of quaintly humble, but it’s since blown up into a full Disneyland-style complex. It’s not cheap – is anything these days? – but for anyone even slightly interested in Elvis and the pop history of America, it’s a must. It’s plonked down in a rather apocalyptic, run-down section of Memphis which isn’t exactly inspiring, but once upon a time it was the suburban mansion on a distant hill that a boy rock star decided to buy as his first – and only – home.

I suppose once the “Elvis is really still alive” jokes all started to fade (I mean, the dude would be 91 by now even if he was secretly lurking in Mongolia somewhere), I started to respect a little more the dreamy kid from Tupelo and his ascension to the top of the world, the thunderbolt effect he had on pop culture (a moment which Baz Luhrmann’s recent Elvis movie, flawed and rushed as it is, really captures ferociously well).
The mansion itself remains the same as always, a kitschy time capsule of what a superstar considered fancy circa 1976. Elvis’ Graceland has survived the spins and twists of what’s fashionable to kind of be weirdly cool again with its low carpeted ceilings and brash colours and sweetly low-key touches. It remains the sort of home a poor Mississippi kid made good would have had rather than the kind of sterile megamansion an Elon Musk probably owns 10 times over.
Here is where Elvis watched his three TVs at once (imagine how he would’ve fared in the multi-screening device age), here he played pool in a densely curtained room decked out like an ancient sultan’s lair, here in the oddly peaceful ‘Jungle Room’ he laid down some of his final songs surrounded by shag carpeting and tiki-tacky exotic furniture.

Once upon a time, I visited Graceland with friends in the mid-1990s, paying tribute at his graveside (which sadly today now includes his daughter and his 27-year-old grandson as well). I came this time at the start of “Elvis Week,” marking the 49th anniversary the King left this mortal coil, and the memorial area was decked out with wreaths from Elvis fans around the world, Belgium to Japan. Elvis is everywhere, as Mojo Nixon famously sang.

What’s changed the most since then is the sprawling “Elvis Presley’s Memphis” complex across the road, 200,000 feet of Presley-ania covering his entire career from the scholarly to the silly. Excess was Elvis’ brand, and the music and pop culture nerd in me adored the trips through Sun Studios, his Hollywood era, the comeback years and the final days.
Everywhere you turn there’s little bits of musical history – an acetate from Sun, the Presley family’s battered personal copy of his first record. High and low art mingle freely – an entire room devoted to Colonel Tom Parker, even a section devoted entirely to Elvis’ hats, in case that floats your boat.

Only in Graceland would the remote control to Elvis’ television get a quirky little display case of its very own, or the handwritten letters Presley infamously wrote President Richard Nixon before their well-documented White House meeting.
I admit, when I walked into a room where the famous leather jumpsuit from the Elvis ’68 Comeback Special sits in a glass case, I felt a bit like the time I saw Abraham Lincoln’s hat in the Smithsonian. History in black leather.

At another point, I walked into one towering room where more than 50 bedazzled Elvis jumpsuits are stacked up 30 feet high, and I surprised even myself as I gasped out loud. As the kids say these days, Elvis was a lot. The cheesy tacky “fat Elvis” years don’t seem quite as awful as they once did to me, but the kind of last gasps of a dying lion, and the over-the-top showmanship those Vegas years displayed have echoed in music ever since – I mean, have you seen a Chappell Roan concert?

Is Graceland “worth it”? I spent four hours there without a pause and probably could’ve done another two (I mean, you’ve got to check out every Elvis hat, am I right?). In its reinvented modern form, its big glorious slab of rock star overkill and the lingering tastes of Southern humility and hospitality, Graceland almost feels like a museum for America itself, of rises and falls and all the echoing ripples we get from our stars, no matter how quickly they fly by.
Maybe Paul Simon put it best – in some strange way, Graceland feels a little to me like coming home.
Maybe I’ve a reason to believe
We all will be received
In Graceland
– Paul Simon, Graceland, 1986





Sometime in the next few months, Elvis Presley will have been dead longer than he’s been alive.